We had a very relaxing start to the day, I am reading a wonderful novel the sort of novel* you put your head into and time dissolves. I love novels like that.

Standley Chasm.

This is only 51km from Alice and the road is sealed. As soon as we turn out of the hotel my anxiety levels rise, have we got enough water? The shops and houses drop away very quickly and we are suddenly in such a vast space that just keeps opening up. Then I notice no phone service and no GPS not even Emergency Only that normally appears on your mobile. There are no cars and is 39deg. The thought of a breakdown or something became overwhelming by the time we arrived at the Chasm I nearly kissed the poor man taking our money I was so relieved to be with more people, local people who know and understand this place. Unlike us!

The traditional custodians of this area are the Central Arrernet people, Standley Chasm, Angkerle Atwatye is owned and operated by the traditional owners. From the kiosk there is a short walk 1.2KM to the Chasm, in this heat it feels like 10KM, we pass through land that had been burnt 12months ago, there is a natural water source so there a lush green saplings amongst the chard’s. At the chasm it’s as if one giant bolder has been split in two, the light shoots down one side which means there is shade on the other. We stay awhile there is only one other group there a German family. We head back to the kiosk and have tea in the shade a big group of Americans arrive. One of the owners comes out and we chat for a while, as we leave I find a sprinkler going on a small patch of grass I go and stand right next to it, some joyous reprieve from the heat.

From here we drive to Hermannsburg it 127KM West of Alice. My anxiety has subsided. We pass road warning signs about horses and kangaroos and flood areas I wonder what this place would look like with water running through it. We pass unsealed roads only accessible by 4WD.

We pass a monument to Albert Namatjira as we arrive he was born here, as we drive through the town we see signs saying not to areas as it is Aboriginal land. There is a small supermarket a sports oval that is only dirt and a new housing development having its foundations laid. We see and hear cars driving around, old and battered. We arrive at the Historic Precinct we have come to visit. It’s now 40deg we enter via an air conditioned shed and speak with the caretaker he has been here 15 years and lives in the township and is one of only 3 white fellas who do. This is the first Aboriginal Mission in the NT. It was established by the Lutheran Church in 1877 on the traditional lands of the Western Aranda people. Many of the original buildings remain and three hold excellent displays of local artists and potters. Albert Namatjira taught many of his family to paint in his style and you can see this reflected in many of the paintings. The isolation must have been a challenge to those first missionaries who came here, they did not agree with the political policies of the day in relation to the removal of half cast children. They actively protected the children from the officials. This is a harsh and moving place the art is beautiful but the reality of life here is and has always been hard. I visit the modern Lutheran church who’s doors are always open. We start our drive home. It’s now 4pm and it’s 42deg.

I arrived at the hotel restaurant this morning to have a peaceful time writing this and catching up with the world……… little did I know today there is a special breakfast because it’s school holidays. There are tables and table of families with multiple kids all dressed for an outing enjoying the most amazing breakfast spread. I did manage to write but just watching the kids return from the buffet with the most amazing concoctions on their plates was too distracting. In the end I had to try one small pancake syrup and cream. Very Yum!

The Lollies

Distance Traveled 254KM

Distance Walked 7KM

*(Olive Again ~ by Elizabeth Strout, thank you Belinda)