Day Four

Today I am walking from Zubiri to Pamplona. My pants are too wet and dirty to wear, if you arrive too late to your accommodation there is no time to wash and dry stuff. My shoes are not to bad but still a bit wet. I see the sun has finally made an appearance so decide it’s a skirt and sandals. I head out feeling so refreshed from a better nights sleep even on the top bunk.

The sun makes a huge difference I am walking on my own but there are other pilgrims passing me or in front or behind.

We cross this gorgeous bridge and follow the trail past a 12th Centry Abbey now unused but being restored it has a small cemetery attached with the most beautiful old roses. I bump into a few pilgrims I have met before and we all head off along the path which follows the river and has farmland all around.

I see 3 large dogs walking through very tall grass below it is a little disconcerting I have heard about people having encounters with dogs along the way. I speed up to a couple in front and walk with them to the next town.

Lunch is a traditional tortilla just out of the pan it’s so good, filling and warm.

I’ve changed into my walking boots now and get ready for the next stretch. Not long after lunch I find a man selling fruit and water for pilgrims I buy an apple and talk to a black cat who is sitting nearby.

The walk continues on with a highway nearby the track winds its way through forest and local fly fishing spots with small groups of men casting lines. There are runners on the trail and a few mountain bike riders. As I emerged from the forest about to head into Pamplona the apple man is back he has changed position to catch pilgrims at the end of their day.

I am on the outskirts of town and need a break I find a seat with a water fountain nearby, shoes and socks off I wash and dry my feet. The relief is enormous the water is ice cold. Wonderful!

I negotiate my way through the streets and bump into three pilgrims from lunch an American and two Australians from Brisbane. We walk all the way into the town together then bid farewell and go our own ways.

Tonight I am staying with my Irish friend who has already arrived. I find a cafe near our meeting point and have a delicious lemon gelato a great way to end a lovely walk!

I arrive at the apartment where we will be for two nights. It’s a loft apartment on the 4th floor in the heart of the city with a lift straight into the apartment. It’s very cool, the Camino really does provide! I can’t believe I get to visit this amazing city and sleep in a real bed with a private shower and views out to the street where Pamplona is alive and buzzing.

A shower and a change we are ready to see the evening sights the Plaza is alive with people drinking and eating and catching up. It’s actually electric walking around it feels like New Year’s Eve. I find a bar and have Pintox which are like tapas but the Basque word for spike as they often come with a toothpick. I order Calamari with Pedron peppers and a Vermouth our host has given me a few suggestions of things to try. It’s very nice!

I meet up with a few more pilgrims after dinner and we chat about plans and what we have all just experienced. Everyone is pleased to see the sun today.

The plaza gets busy with Spanish people eating very late here.

About 21km and many pilgrims.

Elevation 500m.

Day Five a rest day in Pamplona.

I hadn’t planned to have a rest day here but when my Irish friend suggested I could stay with her here it really was too good to resist. When I wake up, I stay in bed for a while, after the last few days this feels wonderful. Then it’s out for breakfast and a wander through the city. I visit Cafe Iruna this is one of the many spots Hemingway visited they even have a statue of him in the bar.

Pamplona is famous for the Bull Fighting and Running of the bulls thankfully not on today. I walked around the Bull Fighting ring but don’t get to go inside.

I spotted a group of very well dressed people gathering and for a wedding. I stand and watch as the bride arrives and prepares to walk down the aisle. Beautiful.

Later in the afternoon I meet up with my Irish friend and we decide to go out for Churros, we end up at bar Iruna at the Hemingway Bar and have a drink instead when we arrive we have the place to ourselves but a group of guys arrive and the place begins to jump.

Out we go on a mission to find churros much Googling and walking we find a place and get some to take away, we sit in the plaza eating these delicious doughnut like sticks covered in sugar that you then dip into the hot chocolate sauce. So good.

A mum with a baby comes and sits next to me the baby only 6 months hold is happy and smiling we chat about life in Pamplona she will have dinner later about 9pm it’s getting on for 8pm now, Spanish children go to bed late like their parents.

The restaurant are filling up, we are both worn out, we head back to the apartment and decide we actually do want dinner.

I wonder if they have Uber Eats here. It’s called Glovo and some how I managed to order via an App a burger called a Blue Mountain (it had to be) a vegan burger for my friend some fries and a drink. 15min later it arrived, Amazing and delicious!

About 12km a few pilgrims a couple of which I have met along the way.

Cocktails drunk in the famous Iruna Cafe and Bar, 2.

A fab day!