Day Five

Ok so I admit I took the scenic route out of Pamplona even though there are a thousand signs and way markers I managed to take the long way round but I got to see deer and geese and what must be a city farm and this peacock doing his thing.

Back on the trail I can see the mountains in the distance which I know somehow I am going to get across.

Today is Sunday and the citizens of Pamplona are out enjoying their mountain walks and cycleways. Many give you a warm Buen Camino or Hola, Good Way or Hello! The walk up is gorgeous the wheat fields are everywhere, there are hawks riding thermals, they hang in the air like a kite on a string. A horse stands completely alone in the middle of the field, I decide he’s an escape.

At the top is Alto de Pedron, a monument peregrino, many wind turbines and a monument to 91 people killed from 19 villages in this area in 1936 – 1937, there are 19 large standing stones above their mass grave.

The whole area is moving, but it’s so cold and windy I only stay a short time then start my descent.

The thing about going up is you have to go down, this decent is very rocky, I go very slowly.

I have booked my Albergue in Obanos it’s private so I have a room and a shared bathroom but actually I’m the only one on the 1st floor, lucky me. After a good shower and actual shampoo I ask my host who has no English for a Beer – cerveza it’s cold and perfect after what has been a big day.

At 7pm 4 other pilgrims emerged from their rooms, a Father and Daughter from the US, another lady from the US and one of the ladies I met on the first day out of St Jean she is from the Netherlands.

Dinner is very generous, a big bowl of zucchini soup rich and creamy followed by pasta with some meat sausage and rich tomato sauce a large glass of red wine and peaches with whipped cream for dessert, YUM.

It’s been a hard but rewarding day.

About 22km and some pilgrims.

One school group of 30 French children (some looking not to happy about this particular excursion)

Elevation 750m.

Things you can become fixated on as you try to get up a steep hill;

1. The best ever metaphor for the wind blowing over wheat fields.

2. Where did that song Obla Di Obla Da come from-of course I now have the answer but this can occupy a lot of brain space while walking.

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Day Six

I am the only one at breakfast, 3 have skipped breakfast for an early start and the American lady has called it quits and got a taxi back to Pamplona for reasons my host can’t explain but there is a lot of raising of arms and something about medico!

I head off on my own for a while before I catch up with the father and daughter from dinner they are going very slow she is recovering from food poisoning and has had a 4 day break. I push on up and up it’s a sharp rise on a narrow path. There are wild herbs and spring flowers everywhere it’s beautiful.

I walk along white paths and see villages in the distance I stop at a place where a young guy has set up speakers and has a table laden with food and drinks for pilgrims this is ‘at will’ so you leave a donation I take an apple and leave some Euros I enjoy his mellow techno beats in the middle of nowhere under olives trees planted many years ago with the warm sun on my face.

I walk through villages built on hills you can’t believe they were ever built let alone in the Middle Ages.

The sky is a brilliant blue but the air is cold. My walk goes on and on I know this is going to be a long day but at some point you start saying to yourself ‘ENOUGH ALREADY WHERE IS THIS BLOODY TOWN’!

When I am almost at the point of having a ‘stand behind a tree and cry moment’ I bump into a young German lady, her feet are very sore and she walks slowly, we walk together for about an hour until her Albergue appears and I push on I still have another hour, I am proud to say I finish strong although the host at my Albergue does message me to check I am still coming.

My prize is of course a top bunk but this is a super modern fit out in an ancient Albergue and the top bunk turns out to be really nice and comfortable.

Dinner is a pilgrim meal. Salad followed by pork fillets with chips, bread and a yogurt dessert it’s all very yummy. I am joined by the guy from the US I walked with into Pamplona with and my Aussie bunk mate from our first night at Orrison.

I also speak with a Portuguese Father and Son who have very little English but our paths have crossed many times for the last 2 days. I tell them I am so grateful to see them in front of me on the path, the Dad had a high vis waistcoat on, I felt so safe knowing they are just there.

They tell me ‘ you so strong’!

About 25km a few pilgrims

Plus 30 French School kids.

More things you can fixate over while trying to get up a hill;

1 Will there be a place with empanadas in the next town.

2 Would Rebel Wilson be the best person to play me in the movie version of ‘My Camino’

3 How did I after weeks of preparation and gear checks bring two left socks! And what to do with them.

Thank you for messages of support they mean a lot.

Xx