Day Seventeen

This morning I returned to the Camino via the same road it seems to be quicker going back, I am soon back with other pilgrims and have yellow arrows showing me the way.

Still with the glow of the pampering from last night and the delicious breakfast of Tostadas (This is a Spanish breakfast of toast and tomato but it’s far more exciting than that sounds). I start the first of todays section which is a climb so I am soon pushing hard into my poles.

I don’t have a bed booked anywhere so I need to get to the next town as early as I can, it’s 12km away. The path is through two forests the first oaks it’s peaceful and there are only a few pilgrims passing me. The steepness flattened out and we moved into a pine forest the smell is wonderful fresh and green.

This walk takes me three hours, I don’t stop, there are no villages until the end. The thought of not having a bed pushes me on. The air is cold but the sun is out a big group of Italians pass me they are literally running in unison then the odd pilgrim but that’s it for the entire day.

I arrive at San Juan in plenty of time to get a bed, ‘I need to have a little more faith I decide’.

After a hot shower, doing some washing (with a guy from Sydney!) and making up my top bunk I finally have something to eat and drink, a Vermouth Rosso with a couple of pintxos so simple an olive an anchovy and a piece of smooth creamy cheese the combination is perfect.

For dinner there is a pilgrim meal, I share it with two Australian and a Dutch lady, all the other pilgrims must be at the bar! We are in the coldest of dining rooms, we all laugh at the austere nature of our situation making it an enjoyable but quickly eaten meal. The other pilgrims made a wise choice.

About 21KM, only a few pilgrims on the way but at the Alburgue now it is full!

Elevation 1100m

The best part of staying in an 11th century monastery turned out to be a good hot shower, amazing.

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Day Eighteen

I start early, I have a long walk to Burgos today, I have a bed booked so don’t need to rush.

The way is nice, soft to walk on and not steep as I walk though it gets colder and colder. We do have a hill to climb and there are rocky sections to navigate, then a long flat way into Burgos.

I have read about how confusing the route is into town, I am soon looking for pilgrims to make sure I am going the right way. I find a family of four from the UK looking as confused as me but we spot an arrow so off we go. The path takes us around the regional airport and then suddenly we are in the suburbs of Burgos. I lose the path again and have to double back.

I am at the lights about to cross back to the Camino sign I missed. The next thing I know I am on the ground on the road flat with my walking poles in front, it was so quick I don’t even feel the fall I just know I am on the ground with 8kilos of stuff on my back. It’s hard to get up but somehow I did. The next thing is a lot of yelling in Spanish and cars pulling over and windows opening from nearby houses and I am surrounded by people all speaking very fast. I feel nothing is broken and there is no blood. I see a seat and make it there a lady moves her car and comes back with her phone and via google translate I explain I am ok in shock and then there are more people and water and bananas and apples and mandarins and more phones. Then more google translate they think I should get on the bus it will be there in 2 mins. The next thing I know 3 Spanish people have handed me over to a bus driver who will take me the remaining 9min trip to my accommodation. I sit in a stunned daze, watching the city unfold.

The driver would take no fare and when she stops the bus and a driver change takes place she explains to the new driver what to do with the dishevelled looking pilgrim in the front seat.

I get off the bus where the driver tells me to. I have an overwhelming feeling to be with other pilgrims I follow a sign to the Municipal Alburgue there is a sign on the door ‘Full’ but I go in to ask just in case. I don’t feel up to the 30min walk to the place I had booked.

As I walk in the door there is the Dutch lady from last nights dinner and freezing accommodation, of course as soon as she asks me what’s happened I burst into tears and there is a flurry of conversation with the volunteer at the desk, I pay for my bed my passport is stamped and the next thing I know my bag is being carried, my bed is being made and I am left to rest and clean up.

I have a graze on my knee and it feels tender to touch, I go and find a chemist and buy an ice pack. Back at the Alburgue I struggle to make to pack work, out of nowhere a German lady appears and says “let me do that I know how”.

About 28km, Not many pilgrims during the day but there are 130 tonight at the Municipal Alburgue.

Elevation 1080m

The Camino provides; help when you are down, a warm bed and a shoulder to cry on.

Xx