Day 29

Lots of pilgrims take a rest day in Leon. I am kind’a having a rest day, I don’t have to be out of the apartment until 11am, I sleep late, and have a relaxing time with the coffee machine and of course the amazing shower.

I head for the Cathedral as soon as it opens and take the audio tour. It’s magnificent inside. The light from the stained glass windows the vaulted ceiling and gothic design. I love the cloister area which has many early statues of saints, including St. James. The organ here must be something to hear! It even has its own friends of the Leon Cathedral Organ group! I had a listen to this while I am writing.

After the Cathedral I collected my pack from the apartment, put some more layers on because it’s actually cold and head out for breakfast and a walk around the city and its sites.

It must be a National day of school excursions because there are kids in uniform everywhere. I find the Gaudi statue of himself but there is an entire Spanish village all doing selfies with him so I snap this photo and head off.

I am walking today but not far, the Way takes me out through the suburbs of Leon, lovely parks and past ancient buildings, I spot this statue of a pilgrim in the Plaza San Marcos which is also where the Parador (very fancy hotel) is.

A corner shop has this poster for “Aussie Lemonade” It’s a lovely poster but I was not tempted.

A finale look back at Leon as I head up through what feels like Camperdown at home there are shops, car yards, old homes, newer townhouses, high rise and vacant blocks.

Then it becomes even more industrial with logistics companies, trucking businesses and a bit of open space. I am getting close to the airport but don’t actually see it, I arrive at my destination a room in what has turned out to be a bit like an Australian pub with a bar a restaurant and accommodation, I have a late lunch and an actual rest.

A pilgrim rests!

I go down for dinner at 7pm but it’s not till 8pm so I go for a little walk to the end of town and find this view looking back to Leon, the top of the Cathedral just in view.

Back at the Hotel there are locals playing cards, a big group of local men drinking coffee and eating cake, there are also what must be poker machines only two a couple of guys are putting coins into them.

I go into the restaurant at about 8:15 and the waitress shows me the Menu of the Day, I choose Artichokes with Clams and Sardines with roasted peppers. The meal for €13 comes with bread, red wine and dessert. Both dishes are a delight, only two main ingredients in both but they are perfect. The waitress tells me the dessert menu in Spanish the only word I get is queso, cheese so I assume cheese cake. What comes out is a Basque cheesecake it’s light with a wonderful burnt top. (No base).

I am on my own in the restaurant, too early for the Spanish, then slow one after another men start to arrive, in the end there 6 men, two are sitting together when the waitress comes back in there is great hilarity and laughter, they must all know one another there are candles on their table and this causes much shouting about “cena romantica para dos” a romantic dinner for two.

Distance walked 8km

Elevation 900m

Pilgrims seen on the Way this afternoon, 2.

Total Distance walked so far 470.6km.

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