Day 37

Today I am not going far, the Way is beautiful with vineyards and rolling hills. I plan to stay in an Alburgue the Blue Mountains Camino group supported by way of a donation.

The Ave Fénix pilgrim hostel in Villafranca del Bierzo, owner, Jesús Jato part of the Jato family who have run this Alburgue for generations.

I had a great experience and was made to feel very welcome, I spent the late afternoon helping Jesus prepare dinner for the 26 pilgrims. Which he does himself every night. I just peeled potatoes for the traditional soup he makes with cabbage, potatoes and what looked like a ham hock. The main course was pork loin with an egg on top. The Alburgue burnt down in the 1990s and with the help of volunteers and donations was rebuilt. Hence the name Phoenix, because it rose from the ashes.

Distance walked 8.5km

Elevation 605m

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Day 38

Today I am walking to friends Susi and Fermin at Casa Susi Alburgue in Trabadalo. The walk is stunning leaving Villafranca the path is on an old road with a barrier from the cars. There are houses built up the steepest of hills and roads where you think no cars would go and a lovely to cross over.

The walk into Trabadalo is gorgeous there are ancient chestnut trees, a deer runs across the road and disappears into the forest, astonished a French couple Andy I stand very still in case there are more to come, alas just one deer but very exciting. The French couple and I walk into the village together admiring all the timber piles waiting to be processed or just drying near a timber mill.

I tell them I am going to Casa Susi and how Susi bought the property after having walked several Camino’s and then pilgrim number 30 came and is still there, a Camino love story, Susi and Fermin were recently married in Sydney.

When I arrive it’s like I have been here before, from photos and stories I feel like I am returning not just arriving, what Susi and now Fermin have built is unique everything is thought of for the pilgrim and the property is beautiful with a flowers and vegetables growing a river at the back which the property runs down to, a hammock and seating for lying in the sun and relaxing.

Of course I cry a lot when Susi returns home from collecting wild garlic in a nearby forest. Susi and Fermin make me feel very welcome, I helped a little as Susi prepared a scrumptious pesto to have with pasta and then an eggplant parmigiana and for dessert a lemony mousse creamy delight. There are 12 pilgrims plus a volunteer from the US we all share what bought us to the Camino and enjoy each other’s company, we are from Italy, Canada, Australia, USA, NZ and Spain.

At breakfast there is Vegemite just to add to the joy of visiting Susi and Fermin.

Distance walked 10.2km

Elevation 600m

No, I didn’t realise the antlers were so perfectly well placed for my ‘special’ photo!

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